My Place in the Food World
The Pilgrim Ponders November 20th, 2004
Perhaps it’s now too late to back out of this blog. I realised that what I want to accomplish entails a lot of archival and field research, not to mention some testing of recipes from long ago, perhaps not cooked for at least a generation. However, the more I think about it, the more excited I get. This not only feels like a trip down gastronomy lane but an anthropological study as well. I have already had a few eureka moments in the last few days.
For the past week or so, I have been asking my mother for information about food that I have not heard of for sometime. In her usual lucid and detailed explanation, Mom would describe ingredients, procedures and implements that are traditionally used in Kapampangan cooking. Sometimes, a few minutes of our conversation would be worth at least three blog entries. Right now, I have already made a list of field trips that I need to go to, farms and produce that I need to photograph, people I have to interview and so on and so forth. In a way, just planning the articles has made me more aware of my roots. Just the other day, even all by myself, I had a lesson in etymology.
I’m posting the maps with this entry since I now realise that I keep on talking about Pampanga as if everyone knew where it was. From the number of surf-in readers, perhaps some would not even know where the Philippines is. To be concise, our country is in Southeast Asia and Pampanga is within the central plains of Luzon island. Pampanga used to have haciendas planted to sugarcane, reflected in our fine confectionery. Since the province was the seat of national government for sometime during the Spanish period, its cuisine has incorporated indigenous, colonial and other Asian facets. And living close to rice paddies and bodies of water has led Kapampangans to experiment with exotic cuisine. Delicacies include tugac (frogs), camaru (mole crickets), tagilo or balo-balo (fermented rice with shrimps or fish), turrones de casoy and many more.
Having lived in Pampanga for most of my childhood and early adolescence, I will start with Kapampangan recipes I’m familiar with. I am by no means limiting myself to this cuisine, nor to Filipino cooking for that matter. I would just like to begin with something I can cook with my eyes closed, most probably due to onion tears. Every now and then, if circumstances permit, perhaps we can venture into the food of other regions. You can always tell me what you fancy.
For this entry, I’ve been debating with myself on what type of recipe to post. Everyday food? Fiesta fare? Exotic cuisine? Too many choices. What would you like to eat?
Maps from Rand McNally map of Luzon from CalState Hayward and University of Texas Perry-Castañeda Map Library


November 20th, 2004 at 10:26 am
lookie lookie!!! my home town is very visible there on your map!!!
i’d like to eat a lot of vegies please, and chicken.
pero ipi-print ko na yung iba mong recipe and i’ll “try” my best to arrive at something delectable, if ever it passes for edible. :))
November 20th, 2004 at 12:12 pm
Everyday food!!!!!!
November 20th, 2004 at 9:31 pm
Yes Snuffie, duly noted. I also like veggies, chicken and fish.
I just came back from the neighbours and we were discussing how people equate Kapampangan food (or Central Luzon) with rich meat dishes. Apparently not many people know of our vegetable dishes. I guess these are not normally served to visitors.
By the way, I re-cropped the original map so you can see more of your beloved Bulacan.
Sige Bea, should I post the recipe for paksiw and pinangat?

November 21st, 2004 at 10:51 pm
Hi Karen. Dropping by. Hope we can link up. I like looking up food blogs. TC!
November 23rd, 2004 at 3:19 am
Hello Ajay! Thanks for leaving a note. Your blog looks delicious - you seem to be a kindred spirit, hehehe!
November 24th, 2004 at 1:22 pm
Just wondering though…why is Kapampangan cooking well-documented when cooking in the other regions are not? You’re bound to find a recipe dating to the Spanish era.
November 25th, 2004 at 4:15 am
karen, you should join the is my blog burning feature on rice!!!
i was reading chez pim and chocolate and zucchini… i picked it up from there. yes!
November 25th, 2004 at 12:56 pm
Minnette, perhaps because during the colonial period Kapampangan cooking was considered the haute cuisine, with cooks being employed by the colonial rulers and the elite. You know what happens when something gets into the sphere of power, it gets documented. But even everyday Kapampangan cuisine, that which may be considered as poor man’s food is in danger of being lost. I guess that’s because it never got into the tables of powers that be. That’s my hypothesis. Let’s see if it will hold water.
Lars, IMBB is done with the rice event. There’s a theme for each month.
November 26th, 2004 at 6:35 pm
what if you get to hold cooking classes na rin? i’m better at “watching and learning” than following recipes off-hand. hehe. i’ll be the first ones to sign-up, promise!
November 27th, 2004 at 12:06 pm
Hi Tin! Believe it or not, someone offered me to hold lessons for her and her maids not too long ago. Don’t worry, I’m trying to get hold of a digital camera so I can take step-by-step shots. I’ll also include pics for the recipes that have already been posted.
December 11th, 2004 at 11:43 pm
hi there
i found your blog through wifely steps, i’m enjoying it a lot. my parents are both from santa rita, too!
December 12th, 2004 at 12:20 am
Hi Santos! Thanks for leaving a comment and you made my day if you do really enjoy this blog. I just got home from the Duman Festival here in Santa Rita! From which barrio are your parents from? I know a lot of Santoses from here.
December 12th, 2004 at 9:40 am
hi karen
i’ll bet you know the family, we’re from san vicente. they still own the botica, and my cousin donna’s the dentist. i really do enjoy your blog. i grew up in guam or the mainland, so the recipes i have are all filtered through guamish tastes and availability of goods, and my cousins have all their recipes in their heads, not on paper. it’s good to see actual recipes, or even approximations of them.
December 12th, 2004 at 8:54 pm
Oh wow!!! We’re family friends! I’m from the Saplalas in San Jose, just past the bridge going to the church. Ate Donna was my dentist and when I’m in town I still see Imang Ciniang and Tatang Iro in the botica. What a small world indeed!
One of the objectives of this blog is to document our traditional recipes, those which we eat everyday because they’re not written down. Even here in the Philippines, we’re slowly losing our old recipes and I think that to lose them is banishing a part of one’s identity to oblivion. Anyway, I already have pictures of lagat puso saguin and guisang tinapa with ampalaya leaves soup and will blog about them soon. Hmmm… what if I go see Ima Ciniang and ask for her recipes so I can post them here too?
May 31st, 2005 at 2:26 pm
heyah! i am a college student taking up BS Tourism in UP. i wonder if you can help me with my Thesis paper. It is “An Exploratory Study on the Contribution of Exotic Cuisine Market in the Tourism Industry of Pampanga”. please any help will do. Thanks!
June 13th, 2005 at 4:34 pm
Diane, sent you an e-mail before I left. Back now, not sure if you got my message.
August 29th, 2005 at 2:27 am
do you know what tangle is in english? we use it for making batuteng tugak.
August 29th, 2005 at 5:24 am
Hi Alex! Tanglé (Premna odorata Blanco syn. Premna vestita Schauer ) or alagaw in Tagalog seems to be called fragrant premna in English. I am not sure how easy it is to find in the US as it seems to be an indigenous Philippine species. I’ll try to do a post on it when I work on ningnang bangus.
Can I hazard a guess that you’re from western Pampanga? The way you say batute as a noun vs. the way Angeleños and those thereabouts use it - as a verb=betute - is an indicator, hehehe!
April 13th, 2006 at 7:11 am
hi!!! i just wanna say it’s nice to see someting like ur blog on the net… i truly enjoyed reading entries and recipes in here and im planning to try most of them out asap… i wanna impress my hubby when he comes home next month! by the way, i grew up in mabalacat, pampanga and i live in casablanca, morocco at present. :chilipepper::kettle::heartbeat: