SHF 6: Yemas (Caramel Custard Candies)
Between sweet and savoury, I’d pick the latter but when Debbie at words to eat by announced caramel as this month’s theme for Sugar High Fridays (SHF), I thought it was too good to pass up. SHF is a spin-off of the now-famous IMBB? and was created by Jennifer at the Domestic Goddess, and I’m entering an entry for the first time. :blooms:
And so I began my (mental) search for a recipe. Caramel, oh caramel! Something commemorative although it’s two days after 16 March.
Filipino schoolchildren know the date 16 March 1521 is when Magellan landed in what he called the Archipelago of St. Lazarus. It was not until 1565 that the islands were colonised and subsequently named after Felipe II. Thus began three centuries of Spanish rule in the country now known as the Philippines.
Philip II was a Catholic king who not only concerned himself with the temporal but also the spiritual affairs of his subjects. It was this fervour which made the conquest of the Philippines that of the Sword and the Cross.
With every new settlement, parishes were established and the church building was central to town planning. To build a church, the whole town was mobilised; the able-bodied men contributing labour while women did other chores.
Back when there was still no cement, indigenous materials were used. A lime mixture (compounds of calcium, not the citrus) combined with egg shells and egg whites, among others was applied to the walls to make it more durable. One can imagine how many thousands of eggs were used for one massive building. Since only the whites were used, the egg yolks had to be utilised as well. Thus we have various egg-based recipes, mostly desserts, such as leche flan and yemas.
And so yemas it is. Yemas is the Spanish word for ‘egg yolks’. However, in the Philippines it now means a custard candy. In our province of finicky tastes, yemas are always caramel-covered, otherwise they would just be another kind of pastillas, usually milk-based candies.
Although I still adhere to this rule, I have never made any of these candies unsupervised. This means I was not yet ten years old the last time I helped out in making yemas. It also wasn’t at home; I do not remember my mother or grandmother with this undertaking. It was from my aunties, my mother’s cousins, that I learnt this recipe from.
My aunties in the barrio (village) have very exacting standards for cooking. They have never written down recipes but the consistency of their cooking has not wavered. So when I decided on this recipe, I crossed my fingers that I don’t fail.
The ingredients I list below are what I remember them to have used. As far as I know, the caramel was just sugar and water and it turned out light and brittle. My first attempt was a disaster, and so I tried adding some shortening, thinking how peanut brittle tastes. Somehow I got the right consistency but one of these days, I’ll go back to the barrio and ask.
Yemas (Caramel Custard Candies)
Custard
1 300 ml. can sweetened condensed milk
8 egg yolks (10 if milk is too sweet)
zest of 2-3 limes, grated
Caramel
250 ml. (1 cup) sugar
75 ml. water
50 ml. butter or shortening
In a mixing bowl, beat the egg yolks well. Wrap the lime zest in a cheese cloth and moisten with the beaten eggs. Squeeze to extract essence; repeat thrice. After squeezing for the third time, moisten the cheese cloth with a tablespoon of water, rinse and squeeze. The water can then be added to the beaten eggs.
Add the condensed milk to the eggs and mix well until fully combined. I used a hand mixer for this. Pour into a heavy pot over very low heat and stir constantly. The brown specks on the picture means this cook underestimated the fire. It’s not bad enough to taste burnt but I am sure to be lectured by my aunties if they see this.
Stir until thick and dry. You would know when to stop stirring when your arm socket is about to pop or if the mixture won’t budge, whichever comes first. The consistency should be similar to that of a cheesecake. Transfer to a plate and let cool. In the meantime, cook your lunch or supper, do the laundry or ponder the meaning of life. Upon cooling, form into balls. You can then start working on the caramel.
Combine sugar, water and butter/shortening in a heavy saucepan. Place over low heat and stir until the water and butter envelopes the sugar. The water will eventually dry out, leaving plain sugar coated with butter. Still on very low heat, wait till the sugar melts into golden brown syrup. Remove from heat, otherwise you’ll be sorry, trust me on that.
Pardon me, I don’t have pictures for this. I couldn’t leave the pan to take photos. The caramel proved trickier than the custard.
Dip each ball into the caramel and quickly retrieve and place on a lightly greased plate or cookie sheet. Let cool and wrap with cellophane if desired. The candies are now done but that doesn’t mean you can relax. The pans still need to be washed. :kettle:
While resting however, you can reflect on the candy. The textures are contrasting - firm and smooth on the inside, crunchy on the outside. The heaviness of the milk and eggs is subtly played against by the lime zest, preventing it from becoming cloyingly sweet. Seldom is this found in a confection so rich.
Now there is no wonder in my mind why my mother and grandmother didn’t attempt this at home. I don’t know how my aunties did it. Although I eventually got the right consistency for the caramel, I think they’re still a bit on the moist side. On hindsight, some peanut brittle recipes use baking soda. Perhaps that should stabilise the caramel. I wonder if my aunties use that. There’s only one way to find out.
Thank you Debbie, for thinking and hosting this edition of SHF. My whole arm, especially the wrist, is still complaining but that means I still have that ‘discipline’ from childhood. I’m using the right muscles after all. :heartbeat:
you did all that?! what dedication!
thank you for this post, it brought me back to my grade school days when we’d buy this type of yema for 4 for 1 peso. these days, i’m sure for that much money, you can only buy the wrapper!
YEMA!!!!! One big revelation to me: I didn’t know lime was used in making yema. I don’t ever remember my mom using lime, but I can just imagine how nice it would taste!
Interesting recipe! I will definitely give it a try. I love limes and this looks like another perfect recipe for them. Thanks!
What a spectacular post. I love yemma but have never aspired to making it… this makes it all look so doable. Thank you for sharing this… Oh, and a historical bit of trivia… on some old maps from the 1500’s, the archipelago is listed as ARCHIPELAGUS SAN LAZARI before it was referred to as LAS ISLAS FILIPINAS or something similar…
Oh Karen they look delish! And a very interesting story too..
What a fascinating story - I loved learning why egg yolk recipes are so popular! And the finished product looks spectacular!
Cool, a caramel wrapped in caramel! I bet that has a wonderful texture when you bite into it!
brought me back to childhood:cat:!
haven’t had these in ages. thanks Karen.:wow:
Thanks Karen for sharing this. The last time I helped make this was during grade school days and I most certainly don’t remember the recipe. yema yumyum !! :tea:
Amazing candies!
karen! i don’t regret reading this entry, even if i’m already days late. you told me to come here last week yet. your yemas reminds me of creme brulee, at least the way you describe the contrast of the interior of the candy against the brittle exterior.
but i especially liked your “while you wait” tip: ponder the meaning of life! hahahahaa :tea:
you and thess sure made my night with your sweet delights. kahit eye candy pa siya for now. har.
I am not a fan of caramel, which is why I didn’t even think of entering the SHF this time, but what you made looks so yummy that I really want to try it. I just have to save my cholesterol quota for a month before I do :heartbeat:
All your posts, Karen, have made me want to visit the Philippines, if only for the food!:hungry:
hello ate–we were just talking about yemas today at work! i’m trying to get the santos family recipe from sylvia that has coconut in it. we used to not only dip but roll the hot caramel so we would have perfect spheres. no wonder i have “asbestos” hands :kettle:
Thanks everyone! Just got back from a loooong land trip, from work, and am I pleasantly surprised to find all these wonderful comments.
Yes Calypso, I did all that indeed. I remember it to be much easier when I was “helping” as a child, hehehe! And yes, the price of milk and sugar has gone up too. Even the cellophane wrapper costs PhP5/piece which might be enough for 20 candies.
Bea dear, some yemas are flavoured with langka (jackfruit). Come to think of it, it’s only ni Pampanga that I have lime-flavoured yemas.
Hello Chronicler! Thanks for visiting! I love limes too. Try some young coconut juice with lime zest. Refreshing! :heartbeat:
Hi Marketman! Thanks for the nice words. The cooking is doable, alright. All you need are strong arms. :chickenrun:
Hello Zarah! It’s actually more than a recipe for me, it’s a trip down memory lane.
Hey Niki! If you go to the more Hispanised provinces and town centres, you’ll find a profusion of other egg yolk-y recipes. Perhaps I should list them sometime, hehehe!
Hi McAuliflower! It does have a nice texture. I just make sure the humidity doesn’t get to it before I do.
Do try Stel, you have three (or 2 1/2) assistants anyway! Tee hee!
Ayan Celia! I wonder how many of us have memories of making these candies in our childhood. I was also trying to figure out the recipe, like how many yolks to a can of milk. Fortunately, I have an elephant’s memory. Let’s see what else I can dredge up in the future.
Thanks Carolyn! Amazing taste too, even if I say so myself. :chomp:
Lars, wait till I write about how we cook leche flan with a crust. That’s more like creme brulee. “Ponder the meaning of life” because that’s how long it takes for the confection to cool, hehehe!
Neither am I Lynn! My mom asked me not to dip the other balls in caramel and even then we had trouble disposing of the candy since we’re not really into sweets. On the other hand, if one of my uncles, the one with the sweet tooth was here, they’d be gone in no time.
You should visit sometime Lynn! You’ll love the culinary as well as the natural landscape.
Ate!!! Some versions of yema have bits of macapuno inside. Could yours be those? Let me go to the drugstore shortly. Let’s see what the aunties say.
Ok, today’s the day for IMBB 13. Let’s see if I can still whip up something. See you later!
karen, i love this post! i do make yema but never with caramel…i will definitely try this.
Do try Thess! I’m sure you’ll come up with other innovations.
Wild Squash Truffle consists of a roasted squash - maple syrup ganache rolled in roasted pumpkin seeds at a la cuisine and then rolled in chocolate. Your caramel covered treat could encase something like this squash. I am keeping both of your ideas for future use! Great job!!!!!
:cloud9:Wow!!!!
I love your story for making yemas…. My daughter had to do a report on the Philippines and had to make a food. Once I read this I just knew I had to try and make such a wonderful dessert/snack since it was going to be for third graders. I must say they turned out really well…..my liltle secrect on what i tried different was rolling them in vanilla wafers….and oh boy were they yummy!!!!:heartbeat:
Hi Carolyn, went to the site and I’m really intrigued. I wonder if I can improvise a bit sometime. Let’s see now.
Anon, thanks for the visit! Rolling yemas in vanilla wafers? Wow, that’s for third graders indeed, and it eliminates the sticky hands too.
I love sugary sweets , I will try this one…am addicted to creme brulee and i eat all the caramelized sugar first…
Hi Schatzli, nice of you to drop a line. I’m not saying it’s easy to cook yemas but it’s worth the trouble if you like them enough. You’ll forget how much effort you put into them.
just a note.. i actually found yr link from market man from here I found Oslo foodie who has been a great help to me. Moved here in Oslo just a month ago.. salamat pala.
will try soon still busy settling down
Karen, check out yesterday’s Inquirer. Ninakaw nila yung Yema pictures mo for this guy’s Yema article!
Shame on Inquirer!!!
karen…do something…this is not the first time this happened to you…remember your “buru” post…akala ba nila madaling maghanap ng camera at kumuha ng magandang pictures…
Thanks! I’ve written about finding my food picture in print on my other blog. Non-food discussions will stay there although I did a critique of the winning recipe. It’s there too.
Great effort! I have done these yemas, aside from the “street” yemas, those pyramid shaped ones with peanuts, and i also just use sugar and water. Maybe you used very high heat and did not skim off the top for sugar scum - the grayish bubbles on top? I would not use baking soda as it will bubble up and make caramel crunch instead of the shiny caramel needed. For uniform balls, invest in a mini ice cream scooper or a melon baller, oil lightly before use.
Karen have you figured out what to add into the sugar and water syrup to get the desired caramel coating for yema’s?
:wow:
How original ! I’m terribly curious and will try this candy soon.
I’m not sure I’ll use caramel though. I think bittersweet chocolate is a great candidate.
Thank you for the very interesting discovery…
:blooms:
Karen,
I have yet to try this recipe. Thanks for the e-mail. Allthough I’m having a hard time where that e-mail went. I was planning to make this to add on to my xmas gifts for the in-laws. How many does it yeild ba? With that exact measurement. At least made with love no? I semi like it a little burnt on the taste. But that’s just me. Happy holidays.
I’ve made them today. And went pretty well. The hard part was the coating the yema in caramel. That took ages, and it does not help when the caramel starts to harden while you try to coat a yema.
hi! i found your blog and recipe through links and links and links. i am an avid cook and loves yema! have a good weekend!
hi! am glad to open this site… i really miss yummy yema with caramel… i hope to make one of these days.. am sure my daughter as well as nephews and nieces would be excited… thanks….
is it ok to do this without the lime?
thanks for the recipe, actually, i tried this already years ago and still wanted to have some other recipe to compare with, its almost the same as the one i’ve been making,duck eggs can also be used, with the help of lime, the langsa taste will be eliminated. hope you can provide me more recipes about candies. more power. have a pleasant day.
hi. your yema balls looks lovely and sweet. :heartbeat: i haven’t tried makin’ them yet but i will sooner or later. i’ve only tried the one where you have to add condensed milk and egg yolks and they tasted great! :heartbeat: d’you know what, i think i’ll try it know.
hehehe…bye:blooms:
I’ve just made the custard, but it looks different than yours. I used the right amount of ingredients, but the custard turned out really yellow and greasy, while yours is more of a beige-y color. I’m really new to cooking, and I’m not sure what i’m doing wrong.
Also, what is the best way for coating all of the balls in caramel before the caramel hardens? Should i use toothpicks?
Thanks, i cant wait to make my own yemas!
Hi Miki,
Hmmm… let’s see what went wrong. Really yellow is fine. That only means the egg yolks were more intensely coloured. But they shouldn’t be greasy. I wonder if your milk has higher fat content than what I normally use or if your mixture was well-stirred prior to cooking.
Can you e-mail me with a list of your ingredient brands? Let’s try to do a bit of sleuthing.
i like the way you give instruction on how to cook a simple delight like “yema”.. very amusing!
thanks for sharing this! The last time ive tasted it is when I was in elem. when my business minded friend sell it to me..
Ive been looking for this recipe over the years. I will definitely try this one of these days. Thanks again.. :cloud9:
Hi,i saw that someone post something about greasy yema..mine is also the same.everything was done well. :wow: except the greasy that comes out while making a roll shape
.
I dont really understand why.Is it because of the milk i use is(Blue Cow)cheaper one. So i dont try to make that caramel bcoz of that grease around the yema which may not be coated well.
I want to make this recipe next time with caramel but i need to know first why is it greasy?…
My daugther love it so much even without the caramel. :heartbeat:
Thanks a lot for the recipe. :blooms:
Cherry
just came back from spain and had yema (i guess they’re the original ones). they used sugar to coat their yema. they were excellent but very expensive.
i was looking for any background of yema and you provided it… thanks!!! i need it for our defense…
thanks for the recipe… i was wondering, what size of eggs did you use for this recipe? i live in california and eggs here are consederably larger than in the philippines so when your say 8 eggs, is that large US eggs or the regular ones in the Philippines. also, my yemas tend to be dry and crumbly and i dont know how to fix it…should i add more eggs or deduc it? thank you so much for the help.
Hi Karen,
So I’m experimenting with making Pastel - the dessert buns from Camiguin and I will try to use your Yema recipe as a start for the filling but I think I will have to reduce the cooking time because the pastel filling is very creamy. Any advice on this? Also, you mentioned some people use Jackfruit instead of limes in the recipe. If I wanted to try that how would I do it? Squeeze out the juice? How much?
Stumbled in your website while looking for a yema recipe. Looks great and I will definitely try this using skim condensed milk. :kettle: Thanks for posting.
I love yemas, I will probably make this one. The use of lime is intriguing..
i’ve been craving yema for a long time,now i try your recipe.
I have the same experience when I take a few days off from training. I get it back quickly, and the awkwardness does go away too. I hear some folks can come back stronger even after taking 2 weeks off. I guess it depends on the person.
This is great! I totally don’t remember the lime, but it makes sense to cut the sweetness from being too sweet. I do remember vanilla essence being added. I might try a batch with lemon juice instead of lime. The question is - where to get the celophane wrappers? Any ideas?