IMBB 14: Fish Escabeche (Orange you hungry?)
Aquatic, IMBB? April 24th, 2005Underneath the carrot and capsicum strips is a tilapia (Oreochromis niloticus) navigating its way towards the list of IMBB entries. This month’s host of the very successful meme, courtesy of Alberto’s original idea, is Ladygoat at Foodgoat… with the theme Orange you hungry?
Since busy days are upon us (my blog friends would have noticed by now how I didn’t pester them to join this month’s IMBB and I’ve neglected to bloghop :blooms:) and summer brings days which make spending time before a stove oppressive, I opted for an easy but classic recipe. This is one of several versions of escabeche, a dish common to many Hispanised regions in the Philippines.
A cursory glance at Iberian and Latin American escabeche recipes show that it is originally a sour, spicy, a little sweet and salty pickled marinade which makes use of chillies and other spices. Epicurious has this entry:
“Escabeche originated in Spain, where it means “pickled”; it’s a spicy cold marinade that was created as a way of preserving food. Escabeche followed Spanish culture around the world, with scabetche in North Africa, escabecio in Italy and escoveitch in Jamaica. The traditional recipe is made with fish fillets or small fish (like anchovies or sardines) that have been deep-fried or poached, then marinated for 24 hours. Escabeche is also used in preparations for vegetables, salads, poultry and eats.”
Ceviche is also derived from this word.
Brought to the Philippines, where water bodies teem with life all year round (or at least they did during the Spanish occupation) and the preferred mode of preservation is salting and drying, escabeche seems to have become more of a sauce rather than a preservative, not unlike Oriental sweet & sour recipes. The latter however, uses more ginger. In practice though, they are used in interchangeably. But in our family, it is always sweet & sour meat, escabeche is reserved only for fish.
I grew up on festive-looking escabeche due to its colourful presentation - orange from the carrots and red from the capsicum. For this recipe however, I decided to use yellowish-orange capsicum to fit perfectly with the theme. Observant readers of this blog will by now realise how I tend to take IMBB themes seriously and literally. It’s just more fun that way, tee hee!
The recipe below can be adapted to use any type of fish, whether saltwater, freshwater, large, small, firm or soft, whole or filleted. The proportions given are just for the tilapia that I used. They can also be modified according to taste. Enjoy!
Fish Escabeche
1 medium-large fish, cleaned and lightly salted
8 large cloves of garlic, 4 cloves sliced cross-wise and 4 finely crushed
an inch of ginger root, julienned
1 small carrot, julienned or thinly sliced
1 medium capsicum, julienned
3-5 tablespoons vinegar (approx.)
1/2 to 1 teaspoon salt
1-2 tablespoons sugar
1/2 teaspoon flour or cornstarch (optional)
water
cooking oil
Lightly fry the fish over medium-high heat for 3-5 minutes such that the outside is crispy and the inside still tender, then set aside. Firm species can be poached instead. Make sure they are not thoroughly cooked otherwise the flesh will fall off later.
In a separate pan, heat a teaspoon of oil then fry the crushed garlic. When almost golden brown, add the sliced garlic and ginger. Stir-fry for around two (2) minutes, add the capsicum and then the carrots*. Pour in half the vinegar, the sugar and salt then let simmer. If using cornstarch or flour, dissolve this into half of the vinegar, then pour into the simmering mixture. Add water to reach desired consistency and lower fire.
Place the fish into the mixture then simmer for another 3-5 minutes to let it absorb some of the flavour.
* If you like the carrots a bit crunchy, add them to the sauce just before the fish.
Thank you, Ladygoat for hosting this month’s IMBB! Keep those Sesame Street cuties on your posts.
Update: The round-up of orange food is here.


April 25th, 2005 at 7:37 am
karen you’re back!!!:cat: i’m so glad..the blog world and i missed you.
and this dish! oooh i gotta catch me a tilapia soon.:fishgold: this could be served as one of the good luck dishes for Chinese new year right?–whole fish, hints of goldy orange…
April 25th, 2005 at 10:50 am
Hi Karen, another delicious post! I don’t know if it’s just my family, but the escabeche version I remember didn’t have carrots, just lots of onions and ginger. I think I may try adding the carrots and bell pepper next time.
I haven’t been bloghopping much lately either, with the advent of warmer weather and longer days, we are outdoors most of the time. Taking advantage of the fair weather before the scorch of summer hits and we will be house bound once more. Take care, and enjoy your summer
April 25th, 2005 at 1:22 pm
Mmmmm! Tilapia with all the trimmings! This recipe is a keeper!
April 25th, 2005 at 8:24 pm
can you make escabeche with fish other than tilapia? difficult to get good tilapia kasi dito eh.
April 25th, 2005 at 8:33 pm
Nice one Karen! I have to do this when husby comes. Buti na lang it’s almost summer so I can fry our fish outside. It gets really stinky when done inside the house. Thanks for reminding me.
April 26th, 2005 at 4:14 am
Karen,
What a lovely post! I especially enjoyed learning a bit about the history of Escabeche. I had no idea that the fish was typically fried - I always thought of it like ceviche; ‘cooked’ by acid. I’d actually ordered escabeche off a menu in Grand Cayman, and when it came and fish was fried, I thought they’d gotten my order wrong. Now I know *I* was the one that goofed.
Thanks for sharing it with us!
April 26th, 2005 at 2:48 pm
Hi Stel! Semi-back that is but I’m making a conscious effort to post at least once a week and read other food blogs in the process. Come to think of it, yes, this recipe does sound like something which will go well with the Chinese New Year menu!
Hello JMom! That’s another escabeche version you have there. One version uses lots of onions, garlic and peppers, without ginger. There’s one recipe I saw (from Mexico, if I’m not mistaken) which even has avocadoes!
How are you Chronicler? Been just a lurker on your blog recently. Had several questions. Will try to remember them soon.
Hi AnP, sorry I neglected to mention any type of fish will do. Small ones, large ones, firm, soft, etc. I’ll make the necessary correction, thanks for the question.
Thanks Celia! Galunggong would taste wonderful too, ‘no? Halibut ba diyan?
Hi Journey Girl! Welcome to my humble blog. And thank you for the nice words. There’s an interesting thread in eGullet which traces escabeche to Middle Eastern or at least Mediterranean methods. Interesting too, I’ll try to pursue that and keep you posted. But it does make sense, no? Fish keeps longer if fried first. In a way, the vinegar or citrus in escabeche is the same thing in ceviche. Now, wouldn’t it be interesting to find where the frying first came about?
April 27th, 2005 at 8:14 am
wow, awesome site, karen. just learning to bloghop here… i am awed by your detailed research — hindi lang pala ako ang anal, baka mas anal ka pa kesa sa ‘kin, hehe — that’s meant to be a compliment BTW. ang escabeche dito sa bahay ini-isnab ng mga bata, so i have to serve the sauce on the side:(, for hubby and me.
April 27th, 2005 at 10:00 am
April 28th, 2005 at 2:04 am
Good history this escabeche am quite good at this.. the best for this, my choice of course is Red Mullet or bream. But if you are feeling extravagant try turbot (my husband wont stop telling me the german name STEINBEISSER). Now I miss the wet market in Athens, no such wet market here in Oslo
So this is the orange are you hungry about about. Manang Celia made some sotanghon. Once we had a carrot chilled soup turned into a sherbet.. (we had a new freezer then). We serve it between 2 courses. First course was Alaska king crab with lots of garlic… followed with CARROT CHILLED SOUP to cleanse the palate for the main course. yes CARROT CHILLED SOUP! YUMMY
April 28th, 2005 at 3:39 am
Hello Stef! Thank you, thank you! I’m blushing with that compliment. If I had more time I’d have tried to look at the different strains of escabeche. I found an escabeche Macau recipe (via the Portuguese, I suppose) which has soy sauce. The one above borders on the Chinese sweet and sour. Interesting, this food research we’ve stumbled upon.
Toni, try a variation which will suit your taste. The one with pineapple might suit you but this one’s good enough, you can just add more sugar if you prefer it sweeter.
Schatzli, I can imagine the wet markets in Greece. I have a friend who lives in Crete part of the time and he’d send me postcards of the coastlines with fishermen hauling their catch. Ayayay! You must really miss that very much.
I love carrot soup but I’ve never tried it chilled. How do you cook that? I feel like Bugs Bunny now, craving for a treat.
I saw Celia’s sotanghon. I think we’re the only two from the Philippine contingent this month. I should work on the coaxing again next month, di ba Stel, JMom? You should join too, Sha! Perhaps you and the hubby can whip up something spectacular. Will alert you as soon as the announcement is out.
April 28th, 2005 at 4:56 am
chilled carrot
steam carrots a good organic one so you can have an earthy taste
puree it on a blender
add carrots juice 1/1 to the puree
finely chopped coriander
blend season to taste
chill and serve
dont make a mistake like we did that ended up a sherbet
for 2 peeps
4 carrots for steam
4 carrots for juice
am into missing greece mode its easter week in greece (fasting week but the tradition is so great. the dyeing of the eggs tomorrow, i miss my suki sa palengke, dami ko fans sa wet market sama pa halik
May 12th, 2005 at 9:42 pm
kaya minsan ayaw ko pumunta dito :p nakakagutom lagi hehehe
May 23rd, 2005 at 3:10 am
Thanks Scatzli! Sorry for not responding sooner. I have a few carrots in the refrigerator, let’s see if I can come up with your chilled soup within the week. The temperature is calling for it!
Ramil! Kumusta na sa bayan ng isdang hilaw?
January 26th, 2006 at 12:00 pm
That’s great, looking forward to reading the rest of your entries.
Take care,