Lasang Pinoy I: Meals in Protest Rallies
Note: revising still but comments welcome
We chose to launch Lasang Pinoy, a Filipino food blogging event, on Ninoy Aquino Day to commemorate the death of our most well-known modern-day hero. Today, Filipino food bloggers and friends in many parts of the world will post their thoughts on being Filipino and the food that go with them.
Try as I might, I cannot recall what I was doing on 21 August 1983. Perhaps it was my typical child’s day of play, homework, raiding bookshelves, piano lessons, cartoons and whatever a nine-year old third grader would do. The day after is what I vividly remember.
My mother was reading the papers early in the evening, and in a tense and troubled voice confirmed: “Mete ne pin y Ninoy” which is Kapampangan for “Ninoy is really dead”. I had no idea who Ninoy was but it seemed that he was someone my mom knew very well. Could he be a relative or a very close friend? I was sure he was either one.
He was not! Ninoy Aquino was a senator. What was a senator? We didn’t have senators anymore, according to Mom. Oh, there were so many things explained to me and my little head was probably spinning yet trying to understand. All I wanted to know was why Mom was so shaken she seemed to almost cry. My mother? She’s unflappable so this must be a major catastrophe. Little did I know that it was indeed a catastrophe of national proportions but one which would bring us out of the depths years later, like a phoenix rising from the ashes.
The next few days seemed like a whirlwind. We were tuned to Radio Veritas the whole time and glued to the TV set for the coverage of Ninoy’s wake and funeral. Although we were in Pampanga, out of the raging firestorm, we also felt the tension. How could we not when the province was once again the hotbed of revolt, especially that Ninoy was a Kapampangan Tarlaqueño. What if more people were killed? What happens after the funeral? Will a revolution erupt?
And then suddenly everything made sense - the visitors who have been coming to our house, the college students who sleep over now and then, the priests and nuns who come in civilian clothing and seem to be talking about very important and worrisome things all the time. You see, one of my aunts is a missionary Benedictine sister and was very active in the protest movement long before the Aquino assassination. My mother was eventually involved and to a certain extent even my grandmother who was 83-years-old in 1983.
In the days after 21 August, even we children held prayer vigils in school, found ourselves with black and yellow ribbons, buttons and T-shirts with “Ninoy, ‘Di Ka Nag-iisa” (Ninoy, You Are Not Alone) emblazoned on the front. In the events that ensued, my brother and I would often be brought along to symposia, rallies and peaceful marches which were often held outside the gates of Clark Airforce Base in Angeles City. The American bases (Clark and Subic in Olongapo City) were according to the protesters, festering sores which symbolised the Filipino people’s servitude to the “US-Marcos Dictatorship”.
It was in these venues that I saw people from all walks of life come and break bread (er… share rice?) together. Side-by-side on the pavement were doctors and fisherfolk, carpenters and students, judges and market vendors - practically anyone one can think of. In many of the events we went to, we would bring food like sandwiches and meals if it was a day-long activity. My grandmother would pack us lunch in her sturdy pombrera, which is a three-tiered round lunch box with a handle. We also brought something extra to share.
The one event which is unforgettable for me is the Tarlac-to-Tarmac March - a demonstration which started in Ninoy’s birthplace in Concepcion and ended at the then Manila International Airport where he was gunned down. It was where people walked (or rode) and had many stops in between where speeches were heard and songs sung. It took six days and around half a million people participated. On the Dau to San Fernando leg, my mother and most probably my auntie brought us to the rally.
During mealtimes, what impressed me most was how everyone shared their food. The spread showed the difference in economic status of the people who were there to have their voices heard and perhaps just to be together. Like the people which brought the edibles, rich man’s fare such as roasts and imported fruits were side-by-side with peasant food like tuyo and canned sardines. Dessert meant candies such as White Rabbit or plain bukayo (grated or strips of coconut cooked in molasses or sugar till solid). Food was actually not a problem because every so often, there would be donations of packed meals and snacks from private individuals and business institutions.
The most memorable food however, was what the farmers brought with them - simple fare of rice and usually fried fish and a tomato or two. Now and then there could be a piece of dry adobo or homemade cured meat. This was then wrapped in banana leaves that gave it a certain fragrance. This is quintessential Filipino mobile food. It is most memorable because it comes with them as they take the time out from back-breaking work to stand up for what they believe in, oftentimes their lives threatened.
Looking back, 21 August 1983 holds much more personal significance than I give it credit for. I may have been a mere child then but the events that stemmed from that day have influenced many of the decisions I made and will make as an adult. My social lenses have been strongly formed by the movements of that time. I love the Philippines enough for me to stay here and work to make it better. I love it enough for me to want to better understand the different cultures that co-exist within. Most of all, I love my country enough to make me want to know myself and my roots better. And that is the reason for the existence of this blog.
My entry for this event is daing na bangús or fried cured milkfish (Chanos chanos). Milkfish is the Philippines’ national fish. Although it is bony (madui or matinik), it is still sought after for its taste and versatility. It is eaten as everyday food and also served on special occasions.
Daing Bangús: Fried Cured Milkfish
2 medium-sized bangús (milkfish, Chanos chanos), gutted, butterflied, unscaled
1/2 cup pure palm vinegar (sasa or sukang Paombong)
1 head native garlic, crushed (more if using the large variety)
a dash of black pepper, roughly crushed
1/3 teaspoon salt
a pinch of sugar (optional)
1 tablespoon cooking oil
When curing bangús for daing, we leave the scales because marinated for a long time, the vinegar softens them and the bones anyway. Scaling it would also leave the fish too soft it could disintegrate when frying.
In a deep container, prepare the marinade of vinegar, black pepper, salt and garlic. Thoroughly rub the fish with garlic. Immerse in the mixture and leave to marinate in the refrigerator overnight, at the very least. It will keep for a week or two.
Upon curing, in a shallow pan, fry to desired doneness. What I usually do is to initially cook the fish in very high heat for a minute then lower the flame to cook evenly. If it’s a relatively small fish, frying it well makes the bones crunchy enough to eat.
Serve with salted eggs and tomatoes, or spicy-chilli vinegar.
The picture above shows a very well-done daing because wrapped food that will be under the sun for a long period of time, such as in rallies, needs to be well-cooked. The rice is also lightly sprinkled with salt before wrapping to avoid spoilage.
Update: The round-up is now online.
I can smell it all the way here. I remember having this for breakfast. Aaah the memories. I love it when the bones are crispy enough to eat.
This is just so great. Warms my heart.
Yum, that definitely looks good. I had “bangsilog” at a Goldilocks here, and it was just “ok,” but the bangus on your picture looks so good!
I have a question, how do they manage to do “boneless bangus” without ruinning the fish? Here in the states, Sarangani Bay [I think that is the correct brand name] sells boneless bangush, and I’ve wondered how they remove the bones with out ruinning the fish. I think Sarangani splis their bangus in half, but I’ve seen whole bangus with now bones. I’m just curious to how it is done and am hoping somebody has the know how!
wow, karen, napaka-vivid ng description mo. parang nandoon ako! nakaka-touch lalo na ang food-sharing na kinuwento mo. thanks so much for organizing this and for a beautiful post.
:cat:wish i’d been there marching too. it was so tense and stressful, not knowing what would happen, but most of all it was sorrowful.
lovely daing…it’s odd, but i’m having some tonight, fr my stash, with salted eggs and tomatoes too!
thanks for hosting.
Absolutely one of my favorite things to eat and I have never made it from scratch…now I have a wonderful recipe. What a terrific post as well…this Lasang Pinoy thing was a good idea…
What a wonderful post! I loved the way you described the people sharing their food…solidarity. Galeng!
Hay! I love this meal…I was based in Finland for a while and when I came back home I think I ate bangus for days on end! I missed it sooo much…thanks for sharing your daing-from-scratch recipe
Haneps, native na tive ang dating…
beautifully presented, karen…hats off to you. and this Lasang Pinoy event sure is a success, thanks to you and Stef and to all those who joined.
btw, the last picture looks sooo :hungry:
Been trying to access this blog for ages; I kept getting denied access. Buti na lang na-access ko na just in time for Lasang Pinoy. :cloud9:
Great post, Karen…I felt like I was sitting there too. Don’t you just love our way of turning everything into a party? Any excuse to eat! I love it…I wish I could have been there.
I love food wrapped in banana leaves, you’re right, it does impart an added fragrance to the food.
So Dexie, I take it you’ll also eat fish heads? Hehehe! Yup, the simple pleasures would include a plate of rice with daing.
Hi Cathy, nice to hear from you again. Boneless bangus is easy if it’s been butterflied. All you need to do is carefully take off the spine then use tweezers for the fine bones. Others use a knife, gently scraping the flesh. It’s faster but you’ll need to be an expert to accomplish it. Now if the fish is intact, it has to be turned inside out. There’s a way of doing it, when we cook rellenong bangus. But nowadays, they slice through the belly then sew it up after deboning.
But Stef! Thanks NOT to me, you’re the co-host! Hehehe! Actually, thanks to all the participants for really working on their entries and for spreading the word too. I’m sure we’ll get better and more entries as the months pass.
Marketman and Joey, all along I thought everyone knew how to cure the milkfish for daing. I suppose this wet version is a bit different from the dried daing sold in the market. Very easy to make and you can adjust the spices to suit your preference.
Yes Ting! Take note, I was almost running late because I couldn’t find alamang and forgot to ask someone to find me some banana leaves, hehehe! The lengths I’d go to for an authentic presentation, mwahaha!
Thanks Thess! I was actually debating with myself if I should show how different a well-fried going-to-the-rally bangus looks from a to-be-eaten-at-home one. Hay naku! That’s for a future entry, hehehe!
Hi Sassy! I found some hotlinking so I configured settings then realised that many were not able to view it but it should be fixed now. Thanks for leaving a note.
Hello JMom! Yes, those were dangerous time but we still found time to really sit down to enjoy the food. Eating was actually like a ceremony then, perhaps the most concrete life-giving activity in a rally full of angry people.
Ooohhhh…. White Rabbit candies!!! I haven’t seen one in a while. Bihira na rin ang nagtitinda nyan dito sa ‘Pinas, unless you’re at Chinatown.
Karen, such a vivid account of events then, so touching too! Thanks for dropping by my blog! Pwede ba kahit walang pagkain, kwento lang? Coz I’m not a food blogger…
Your description of the farmer folks who joined the rallies really made cry. They are the ones who is in dire need of money to feed their family but they took time, effort, and a lot of guts to show their solidarity to the rest of the populace. They could have conveniently ignored the whole movement but chose not to even if they know they have a lot to lose shd the tide of circumstances in these events turn sour. I salute these unsung heroes as much as I salute the likes of prominent people like to Ninoy.
*like Ninoy* I mean.
Thanks also to you and Stef for organising this. And I’m so glad to be part of it. :lemon:
Hi Jey C! Madalang na nga although I still find them in many provincial groceries. The milky White Rabbit is rarer to find, the one wrapped in a very, very thin wafer.
Thanks Scanns. Lasang Pinoy is an inclusive event, everyone’s invited. Sali na!
I can only agree Celia! They were actually the ones who were most affected but also the most suppressed. It’s still the same now but I have to admit civil liberties have somehow improved.
OMG! That picture of the golden fried bangus and itlog na maalat makes me want to head to the kitchen. they’re my absolute favorites. great job as usual, karen:)
blew away my first comment on a stupid error. just wanted to say that your beeyooteepool pictures made me want to look for bangus in the singular pinoy store in brussels. i am now salivating for daing with kamatis and itlog. mmmm
Bangus, always the star anywhere! Let’s see, if I’m not too lazy I’ll try a relleno one of these days…
‘maryosep, Karen! Nakakagutom naman ‘yung bangus sa pictures mo! Seriously, I think daing na bangus and adobo were the packed lunches that helped fueled a revolution from the rallies following Ninoy’s death to the original People Power in 1986. I don’t see why not: they’re both delicious, satisfying, and portable.
:cloud9::cloud9:
hi, i would like to know how to make homemade boneless bangus. if you could send me instructions that would be great. i could could give you some taste test if you like. thanks… email me at arcas_6@yahoo.com
Are all your facts straight? I am not trying to be a pain in the behind, nonetheless I don’t observe how this makes total sense! Much Thanks!