Camaru: A Sumptuous Meal!
Capampangan, Fauna, Lasang Pinoy August 21st, 2005
After a short deliberation, my co-host Stef and I decided to post the round-up for the launching of Lasang Pinoy this evening since we’re still receiving entries. In the meantime, I’ll post something which I would give Ninoy if he were alive today.After his assassination in 1983, numerous articles on Ninoy came out in both the government-controlled and the underground press. Many of these articles tackled his private persona - the son, husband and father who happened to have big dreams yet remained down-to-earth. A feature article I still remember vividly is about Ninoy and the food that he liked. Since he was from Concepcion, Tarlac which is ethnically Capampangan, he ate like his forefathers did before him.
Aside from the article I read, Atching Cora also confirmed that one of the delicacies enjoyed by Capampangans and which was known as Ninoy’s favourite is a dish of plump mole crickets (Gryllotalpa orientalis Burmeister). These are called camaru (also spelt ‘kamaru’), which are burrowing insects found in soft ground such as rice paddies.
Until very recently, I didn’t realise that our beloved camaru is considered a minor pest (very, very minor, mind you) by rice farmers. I come from an agricultural community where even the lands behind the houses in the town proper are ricefields yet I’ve never heard the camaru was a troublesome creature. Could it be that they are friendlier in our place?
Or perhaps Capampangans eat them before they can cause any trouble such that they are already considered rare in many towns nowadays.
It is interesting to find out how many other regions in the archipelago eat the camaru. Much more interesting to find out is how they were first considered as food. Eating this insect may have started out during very lean times but it is now a highly-valued foodstuff. However, recent studies say insects were probably the first fauna eaten by humans since they were more accessible than bigger and fiercer animals. That does makes sense. Now to acquaint ourselves with the scrumptious creature. The IRRI RiceDoctor website describes the adult mole cricket to be “brownish and very plump. It measures 25-40 mm long. It has short antennae and its folded wings do not cover the entire length of the abdomen. The enlarged front legs, which are modified for digging, have strong teeth-like structures.” In preparing to cook the camaru, the antennae (called sagu or horns), wings and legs are broken off after lightly simmering in vinegar, salt and spices adobo-style. The only thing I dread about eating camaru is that I have to endure dressing them one by one before they are fully cooked to be enjoyed.
There are two well-known recipes for the camaru and both require that it is pre-cooked and dressed. Then one can proceed to either stir-fry (sanglé) in very little oil until they are toasted and crispy or saute some garlic, onions and tomatoes to cook them in. Whichever recipe is used, the camaru is always sought after.
I have eaten camaru for as long as I can remember. A mouthful brings a burst of flavour - similar to a rich nutty taste but much more than that. Some friends that I’ve introduced this to were initially taken back when they realised there were insects on the plate but once having tasted just two or three of them, they’ve never looked back. In fact, they outdo me in craving for these tasty bits every so often.Today, instead of just being eaten in the fields, the camaru is much-requested and served in many Kapampangan restaurants and home celebrations. At least in the province, it is a great leveller since the rich and poor enjoy it both as daily ‘peasant’ fare and as gourmet food.
This is for Ninoy Aquino, the hero who loves camaru. May you have an endless supply wherever you may be! Mangan ta na!
Middle photo from IRRI Rice Doctor website


August 21st, 2005 at 5:38 pm
do you eat this Karen? please decribe its taste
August 21st, 2005 at 8:44 pm
As usual, I forgot to note the taste. I’ve revised the entry above Thess. It’s a bit nutty, and if very fresh a bit sweetish.
Did you try any of the insects and grubs in Thailand? How do they taste?
August 21st, 2005 at 9:06 pm
what about the texture? is there a crunch? if there is, what’s the proportion of crunchy to creamy? eh ‘yong general mouthfeel? ang nai-imagine ko kasi may part na matigas tapos may konting flesh na malambot. malayo ba ‘yong imagination ko? ang daming tanong ano?
August 21st, 2005 at 9:49 pm
Ah, mouthfeel depends on how it’s cooked. If it’s singlé it is around 50% crunchy while the inside is soft, almost like well-done French fries. It it’s gisadong kamatis then it’s 1/3 crunchy and the rest of the body is soft and creamy but still firm. Perfect approximation Stef!
August 21st, 2005 at 11:23 pm
I may have been dreaming but I think I may have spotted them in the Cabalen buffet here in Manila…I’m curious to try them out…
August 22nd, 2005 at 7:33 am
they also have that here in korea, but i’m still not brave enough to try it…had a very “traumatic” experience with bundeggi (moth pupae)
August 22nd, 2005 at 11:41 am
Camaru! Oh, Karen: you’re making me dreadfully hungry! I love my crickets crisp-fried and dipped piece by piece in good ol’ fashioned sukang Iloko. ^_^
August 24th, 2005 at 5:54 am
Right Joey, they have camaru in Cabalen restaurants. I think they’re cooked the sangle method. What some people do is to buy from restaurants and then re-cook them with tomatoes.
Annabanana, how do they call them in Korea and how are they cooked? That should be interesting! There’s actually an African species which looks almost the same and I think they’re eaten there too.
Midge, that’s the sanglé version and you’re right, they’re perfect with vinegar! Ayayay! This is making me hungry too.
August 24th, 2005 at 10:19 am
i have seen every member of my family eat that in front of me.. they made me eat it during my grandparents’ joint bday party.. but i just can’t.. hahah not that brave!
August 25th, 2005 at 10:28 am
Hazel dear,
Close your eyes, open your mouth and savour the taste. You won’t look back, I promise.
August 27th, 2005 at 12:36 am
Wow! I didn’t know they ate those there in the Pinas. I’ve seen people eat termites adobo-style but that’s it. I’d probably eat it if I didn’t know they were bugs.
September 7th, 2005 at 9:19 pm
Phischy dear, you won’t know they’re bugs once you taste them, hehehe!
March 6th, 2006 at 4:14 pm
I spent some of my growing up years in Zambales. Over there they had something like your camaru. They called the bugs abaw. People would come to our house lugging sacks of it. the abaw were pre-cooked so we ate them much the way you would eat peanuts boiled in their pods. I remember sitting on the porch, eating the soft abdomen parts and trying to hit my little sister with the hard head parts.:lemon:
August 18th, 2007 at 12:54 am
Do camaru farm exists these days? Are there any incidents wherein this insect caused a health-related abnormality?
simlencs@gmail.com
April 9th, 2008 at 11:48 am
Camaru is really good! sauteing them in garlic, onions and tomatoes till they are slightly crisp (but soft inside) really evokes fond childhood memories!
Its just too hard to keep up with the demand of camaru (mole crickets)! I remember seeing kids and women in the rice fields gathering them after the soil has been plowed. truly a laborious task!