Mayap a Aldo ning Kapampangan!
Capampangan, Poultry, Rice December 11th, 2005
On Friday afternoon, I went home looking almost like Cinderella before her fairy godmother’s arrival. I was carrying a clay pot, a cooking spoon, two semi-burnt bamboo tubes, two bags and soot on my dress. It was also drizzling and I had no umbrella. That most likely completed my forlorn look.
But forlorn I was not! I just had a wonderful day! Who wouldn’t if one got to sample food rarely eaten? I had a taste of something from the groaning tables prepared by public elementary and high school teachers from all the towns of Pampanga. This was for the celebration of the 434th Aldo Ning Kapampangan (Pampanga Day) with the theme Kapampangan: King Sunis, Terak, Teatru, at Apag king Dulang (In Songs, Dance, Theatre, and Food).
Never before have I seen so much Kapampangan specialties in one place. The products of each town were prominently displayed - eggs from Minalin, turrones de casoy and sans rival from Sta. Rita, puto seco from Baculud (Bacolor), pure carabao’s milk pastillas de leche from Magalang, burung asan from Candaba - name it, it was there!
What caught my attention and tastebuds most was food I seldom encountered. For the first time in my life I ate arobung dagis palé (field mouse adobo) which did taste like chicken, specifically a cross between chicken and frog, but much more tender and flavourful. I have no qualms about eating field mice. They are clean, living on grains and leaves. These are indigenous species eaten by our forebears long before the galleons came. Today’s disease-bearing rodents found in homes and sewers are the descendants of those who crossed the seas from Europe.
Having said all that, I’m looking forward to eating more dagis palé in the near future.
From Porac, there was some binulung paro and manuc, two soups - one of freshwater shrimps and another of chicken - cooked in a bulu. This is a type of bamboo which is more brittle than the variety used for building houses. It was my first time to eat binulu and to say that the taste was fantastic is an understatement. You have the robust flavour of native chicken, the mild sourness of camias (Averrhoa bilimbi) mingling with the clean, crisp scent of bamboo. Alternatively, there’s the sweet freshness of the shrimp. Oh, that is the life!
Naturally there was binulung nasi for how can we eat without rice? The teacher who cooked this specialty taught me how it is done.
Abias or raw rice grains are wrapped in banana leaves then inserted into the bamboo tube. Water is poured into the bamboo then cooked over an open fire. The rice is done when the water dries up. One can break open the bamboo to get at the rice but I found it easier to just pull at the banana leaf wrapping. When I did so, oh my the scent of freshly cooked rice! Of the banana leaf and the bamboo! The bulu is still here, I haven’t thrown it away. I try to inhale the scent thinking it will not be tomorrow that I eat binulu again.
Today, 11 December is Pampanga Day. It is the only province founded in 1571 by the Spanish conquistadores, the same year as the capital of Manila. On its 434th anniversary, Pampanga is both old and new. In our cuisine, we see obviously Hispanic-influenced food like turrones de casoy and tamales. We also have American recipes like pies and tarts. There are new innovations such as adobong balut. Yet the age-old ways remain. One of these is using bamboo tubes as cooking vessels. This is very Southeast Asian. Look at nasi lemang which boo_licious featured recently. There’s also Wena’s bamboo chicken.
Oh, if you’re wondering why I was in a Teachers’ Day activity, and playing Cinderella?!?! I was invited to expound on Apag king Dulang, my take on food and culture. I had a wonderful time using a sandok (wooden spoon) as a pointer, all dressed up in my grandmother’s saya.


December 11th, 2005 at 1:01 pm
wow karen…binulung paro, adobong dagis pale, binulung nasi…mouthwatering…no camaru? hay…wish i’m back home…
December 11th, 2005 at 6:09 pm
binulung nasi - that one looks really interesting . . . i still think i wouldn’t be that adventurous to try the arobung dagis pale . . .
December 11th, 2005 at 6:20 pm
in your grandmother’s saya? that i gotta see! will you be posting pictures? (please….)
the food looks and sounds fabulous — i’ve never had field mice but if you were my tour guide i’d probably take a bite LOL. gimme gimme
question: could you describe a bit more how that chicken is cooked in the bamboo? i see that the bamboo is split — is it then placed into another cooking vessel, or does the bamboo come into contact with direct heat?
December 11th, 2005 at 7:56 pm
hi cinderella! i hope you would give us more details about your presentation, how you enlighten them w/ your ideas on food and culture, their response…. hehe dami kong requests ba? please…
December 12th, 2005 at 10:42 am
So it’s true we cook rice in bamboos. Bulu/bolo is the bamboo variety that Pangasinan was named for in the past, and we use it for cooking, too.
I’ve also been very curious since last week about your talk. Hope to read more about that in the future.
December 12th, 2005 at 11:39 am
I’m not sure if there were any camaru, Koyang Wi. Someone was tugging at me to taste something the whole time, I think I missed half of the items, huhuhu! However, I now have standing invitations to visit several towns to document their specialties. Ayayay! Ars longa, vita brevis moment once more!
Mike my dear, you wouldn’t know it was a field mouse even if you stared at it, hehehe! And when you taste it you’d want more, I am so sure! Ask Koyang Willy. He’ll be glad to explain, hehehe!
Stef, the tables were turned on me. This Cinderella-wannabe couldn’t take photos while having fun onstage, errr, while lecturing, hehehe! Someone was taking pictures but I had no idea who he was. I’ll ask the DepEd supervisors. I’ll take photos of the saya though, plus the props. I also went to another event last night where we were required to dress up in Filipiniana attire. I wore another one of my lola’s saya with a kimona. But I was also the photographer so no photos of me. But I had one of two senator-guests, hahahaha!
The chicken or shrimps are placed inside the bamboo and it does come into contact with fire. The bamboo is split to take out its contents after cooking. No need for another vessel prior to eating. I suppose if you’re in the mountains you just pour the contents directly on your rice. If you’re wondering why it doesn’t burn, that’s because they use young, green bamboo. Only dry wood burns immediately.
Iska and Kai, nothing new for you if you’ve been reading my blog. Koyang Willy suggested I should let others offline benefit from my research so I didn’t write anything new except for the duman presentation which I’ll post here within the week.
Ayan Kai! I remember you posting about Pangasinan and bulu/bolo but I was in such a hurry rifling through your archives (read: cramming) that I couldn’t find it. I’ll make sure to mention it next time, when I do a full post on cooking binulu-style. Of course, that’s after I go to Porac. The school principal invited me for an orientation. Yeeebbbaaa!!! Can you tell I’m excited?!
December 12th, 2005 at 12:52 pm
manyaman! hehe i’m not sure if that’s correct kapampangan as i wasn’t taught much by my dad. interesting site you got here. very informative especially on pinoy culture. by any chance, would you also have a listing of the diff forms of kakanin, and pinoy pastries? i’m just really obsessing with pinoy food at the moment.
anyway, just passing by. again, nice site.
Ly
December 12th, 2005 at 6:01 pm
hi karen! i missed sending you an sms when we were in pampanga last. but i heard from my in-laws that come christmas day, we’ll all hie off to pampanga again! baka we can meet?
December 13th, 2005 at 1:46 am
Wow Karen! All the dishes you mentioned sound great…yes, even the field mice. I have never tried it, but if I get the chance I will, that’s a promise! The rice and soup cooked in bamboo sounds absolutely divine! Tried rice cooked in bamboo once when I was in Morong, Bataan and it was great
But good luck to me finding dishes like that here in McManila. Haha! 
December 13th, 2005 at 2:07 am
Wow Karen! Foodie foodie heaven

Those are the kind of food festivals I want to attend. With new and interesting food to partake. Hope you can share your lecture here as well.
December 13th, 2005 at 7:16 am
Thank you Ly! A listing of Filipino kakanin ang pastries? That’s like an accounting of the Philippines’ 7,100 islands! But I suppose you can generalise them into rice: puto (bread-like), calamay (generally ground glutinous rice), bico (full grains) - and rootcrops like cassava, arrowroot and many others. Of course there’s much, much more!
No problem Tin! Hope to see or at least talk to you soon!
Yes Joey, I don’t think we’ll find many of the recipes in Manila. But Pampanga’s just an hour away. I’ll alert you when I seriously get into tasting, uhm… researching specialties, hehehe!
Dessert Diva CeliaK, as I said, nothing really new for you but I’ll post bits of my ad lib soon, hehehe!
December 13th, 2005 at 9:37 pm
karen will you tour me around sta rita and feed me with all these cuisine please.
December 14th, 2005 at 6:54 am
Wow! Did your carriage turn to a pumpkin?
Sounds like you had fun. The food looks and sounds interestingly delicious. Hey, thanks for visiting my site. I get to find you here.
December 15th, 2005 at 10:17 am
aru! masanting! manyaman! haha..yun lang alam ko..bala kang bie mu!
really..impressive! bow nko syo karen!
December 15th, 2005 at 8:38 pm
So interesting to read about the food festival…what lovely cuisine..:)
December 16th, 2005 at 6:13 am
karen I thought of the above pic kasi sa bookstore I saw a book titled ancient cooking imagine it was like an open clay similar sa bamboo parang may connection kasi.
December 17th, 2005 at 5:18 am
Inday Sha, I would if you were here. But not all the food I mentioned is available in Sta. Rita. We’ll need to do a tour of Pampanga for that. Manageable though. Well, anything abundant in an area is made into a vessel for one reason or another. That could be the connection, hehehe! But I suppose the earliest implements were patterned after what is naturally found in nature.
Hi Mae, yes it did, hehehe! Come to think of it, my fairy godmother didn’t really visit me.
Thanks Sailu! Come and join us.
December 19th, 2005 at 9:08 pm
Talking about cooking using bamboo — when I was growing up, we used to have ‘tinubong’ all the way from Tagudin. Am sure you know of it — it’s like uhmmm, suman cooked inside bamboo. Yummy!
December 21st, 2005 at 7:11 pm
Beatriz, didn’t you bring some to the dorm before? Or someone brought in the nice generous tupig? Kai has a post on those.
December 26th, 2005 at 1:17 pm
My first time in ur blog nice views and stories.Hope you could make a line up of the best cuisines n places in Pampanga so we could make a food trip there.You make me proud of our heritage.
December 29th, 2005 at 7:51 pm
Hello Belle! Thank you for leaving a note. The more I dig, the prouder I am of our heritage. I’m sure every Filipino who would search for his/her roots would be proud too.
Hmmm… restaurant reviews are not really my line and I hardly eat out when in Pampanga but I’ll take note of that. Will keep this blog updated. Thank you for the suggestion!
January 2nd, 2006 at 1:30 pm
:wow::wow::wow::hungry:got me hungry just reading your pc in cooking and eating kapampangan food… keep up the good work grl… I’m proud for you grl….
jen:pig: